Disclosed is the use of specific cosmetic raw materials like emulsifier systems, thickeners/rheology modifiers, waxes and consistency/gelling agents, emollients, molecules that exhibit some photo¬stabilizing function on UV absorbers, silicones, film-forming agents, SPF enhancers/boosters, skin feel agents and UV solubilizers and stabilizers to enhance the UV protection, formulation ability and sensory properties of suncare compositions.
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Suncare and personal care compositions containing specific micronized UV filters and other new cosmetic raw materials
Cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations may exist in a wide variety of preparation forms, for example, creams (more or less viscous) such as O/W, W/O, O/W/O, W/O/W, PIT emulsions or micro-emulsions, gels, lotions, milks, sprays, alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic lotions, milks, wax/fat compositions, stick preparations, powders, tablets, foams, ointments, etc…
As water- and oil-containing emulsions (e.g. W/O, O/W, O/W/O and W/O/W emulsions or microemulsions) the preparations contain, for example, from 0.1 to 30 % by weight, preferably from
0.1 to 15 % by weight and especially from 0.5 to 10 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more UV absorbers, from 1 to 60 % by weight, especially from 5 to 50 % by weight and preferably from 10 to 35 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one oil component, from 0 to 30 % by weight, especially from 1 to 30 % by weight und preferably from 4 to 20 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one emulsifier, from 10 to 90 % by weight, especially from 30 to 90 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of water, and from 0 to 88.9 % by weight, especially from 1 to 50 % by weight, of further cosmetically acceptable adjuvants.
As emulsifier systems, we intend any structural elements used primary to stabilize the cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation by reducing the interfacial tension between the oil and the water. Such category of ingredients could provide additional characteristic such as easy spreadability on skin, waterproofness of the formulation, film-forming effect on skin, dispersing effect on solid particles. All those properties contribute to improve/optimize the overall SPF values of the cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations.
Emulsifier systems are classified according to their ionic characteristics and their hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB). They may comprise for example; carboxylic acids and their salts, alkyl phosphates or phosphoric acid esters, ethoxylated carboxylic acids or polyethyleneglycol esters, linear fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol polyglycolethers, fatty acid polyglycolethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid and polyglycerol esters, monoglycerides and polyol esters, sorbitol or sorbitan and their derivatives, glucose derivatives, sulfates and sulfonates derivatives, silicone emulsifiers.
Hereby, specific ingredients are preferably used to fulfil the previous described properties:
Tradename INCI or chemical description Company
Imwitor 375 Glyceryl citrate/Lactate/Linoleate /Oleate Sasol Germany GmbH Abil Care XL80 Bis-PEG/PPG-20/5-PEG/PPG-20/5-dimethicone
and Methoxy PEG/PPG-25/4 Dimethicone and
caprylic/capric triglycerid...